To Grow Thriving Fruit Trees in Your Garden, Avoid These 10 Common Mistakes

To Grow Thriving Fruit Trees in Your Garden, Avoid These 10 Common Mistakes

Having fruit trees in your yard offers numerous benefits for your landscape, wildlife, and yourself. Not only do you get to enjoy fresh, delicious fruit, but you also support pollinators like bees and butterflies.

Fruit trees enhance the visual appeal of your garden with their vibrant spring flowers and lush green foliage, and their roots help stabilize the soil. Their fallen leaves add valuable nutrients to the earth, ensuring a healthy crop annually.

Although fruit trees are relatively easy to maintain, even expert growers can make mistakes that set back tree growth and halt fruit production. Here, fruit tree experts share common mistakes people make when growing fruit trees and how to avoid them.

Planting Too Deep

Planting a tree too deep is detrimental to its long-term success and can cause the tree to struggle for oxygen and water, says Kalyn Butt, horticulturist at Longwood Gardens. Root rot, stunted growth, and increased susceptibility can also occur when a tree is planted too deep.

“When planting, be sure to dig a hole that is two to three times as wide, and no deeper than, the root ball, making sure that there is no soil above the graft,” says Butt. If you have recently planted a tree too deep, remove and replant it at the proper depth. If it’s not possible to replant, Butt says to carefully remove any soil that is above the root flare of the tree and ensure that mulch is never against the trunk of the tree.

Planting in the Wrong Location

Lack of sunlight, inadequate pollination, and poor drainage can lead to tree decline. Set your fruit tree up for success by selecting a site that is in an open area, in full sun, and has adequate drainage, Butt says. Understanding your tree’s requirements will help you select the best location for its long-term health and longevity. If you have recently planted a tree in an undesirable location, Butt recommends carefully relocating it to a more desirable area.

Pruning Too Much or Too Little

Pruning fruit trees too much can reduce fruit production and weaken the tree, while too little pruning can result in overcrowding and poor fruit quality. “Prune fruit trees when you plant them and then annually in late winter or early spring,” says Butt. This helps the tree establish a well-spaced, permanent branch structure and reduces pest problems.

When pruning, Butt recommends removing any dead, broken, or crossing branches, as well as any water sprouts or suckers. If you have a tree that has never been pruned, aim to reduce the tree’s height over the course of three years by removing no more than one third of the tree each year, Butt says.

Arborists and horticulturists have long advised against leaving stubs when pruning. However, with apple trees, it is beneficial to leave a stub, which will encourage the growth of new fruiting branches in future years.

Not Watering After Planting

Insufficient watering after planting can put stress on your tree, resulting in wilting, reduced fruit production, and even death. Establish a consistent watering schedule for your tree, and consider using mulch to promote water retention. “Young trees should be watered at planting and every two to three days for the first few weeks,” says Butt. This is crucial for the tree’s health, root establishment, and overall vitality. After the first month, you can reduce watering to once a week. If you notice drooping leaves, it is likely a sign that your tree is not receiving enough water.

Not Considering the Pollination Status

Insufficient pollination results in a decrease in fruit production. Understanding the pollination status of your fruit tree is imperative for the success of your tree. “Most apple trees, for example, will not pollinate themselves,” says Mary K. Stickley-Godinez, co-owner of Countryside Farm and Nursery. “They need to have another apple, pear, crabapple, or quince that is blooming at the same time in order to get fruit.” Plant more than one fruit tree to address this issue, as this will aid in future pollination.

Applying Too Much Soil Amendment

Excessive soil amendments can harm your tree’s health, says Stickley-Godinez. When too many amendments are added, the tree’s roots may become dependent on the rich soil in the planting hole, making it difficult for them to expand and grow into the surrounding native soil. Additionally, over-amending the soil can contribute to root rot.

If you have already applied too many amendments to your soil, water the tree thoroughly to remove excess nutrients away from the roots and allow the plant to recover.

Planting Too Close Together

Planting fruit trees too close together can lead to competition for nutrients, sunlight, and water. The close proximity can also make it more difficult to prune the trees and harvest the fruit.

If you have already planted the trees, you may need to dig them up and replant them. Be sure to take note of the mature sizes of the different varieties. A general rule of thumb for spacing fruit trees is as follows: dwarf trees should be spaced 10 to 15 feet apart, semi-dwarf trees should be spaced 15 to 20 feet apart, and standard fruit trees should be spaced 20 to 25 feet apart or more.

Not Protecting From Wildlife

It’s well known that deer and other wildlife enjoy the taste of fruit and can cause damage to your trees. Stickley-Godinez says that deer might rub their antlers against young saplings, which can harm the tree even if they don’t eat it. Additionally, groundhogs, rodents, rabbits, and porcupines can eat the bark, while birds and bears are fond of the fruit. Essentially, any nearby wildlife can make your tree a target.

Add deer fencing around your yard or garden, regularly pick up fallen fruit, and apply chicken wire or bird netting around your trees to protect against rodents and birds.

Lack of Pest Control

While there are varieties that are less susceptible to pests, most fruit trees need protection from insects. “The only thing worse than biting into an apple and seeing a worm is biting into an apple and seeing half a worm,” says Stickley-Godinez.

Remove any fruit that is infested with pests. Contact your local extension agent to learn the type of pest you’re dealing with and the specific requirements in your area for getting rid of the infestation.

 Removing the Suckers

One of the biggest mistakes people make when caring for fruit trees is pruning them like ornamental trees by removing all suckers and small branches. In doing so, this eliminates all the fruiting branches. “Fruit trees will grow a branch one year, set flower buds on that branch the second year, and produce fruit the third year of that branch.” 

Treat each structural limb on the tree as a “permanent” branch, as fruiting stems will grow off this limb. “Choose fruiting stems that are healthy and are spaced every
foot or so along the main limb, removing the rest,” says Stickley-Godinez. Then, shorten the remaining branches so that they are 12 to 18 inches long.  Once that stem has fruited, it should be removed the following winter. 



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